For some reason, this didn’t get published back in December. Oh joy! Here it goes!
On Cyber Monday, The Impossible Project offered a whopping 20% off its entire online store. That was the perfect opportunity for me to purchase a Lens set that I’ve been focused on for quite a while (pun intended) …
This video is actually my first post-narrated one! I’ve tried to make it sound a little better by using the iMovie “more bass” equalizer on the narration track, please let me know how you like it! 😀
This limited edition film behaves exactly like the B&W 2.0 film – but it develops in black and red, resulting in interesting and eye-catching images if you choose the right subject. This is also the downside of this film’s unique chemistry: not everything that looks good in B&W does in B&R. I’ve found that subjects that already contain the color red in parts of the image work well. What is also a small drawback is that it was only available with a black frame.
Unfortunately the film is currently sold out. You can however still check out the store page here, so there’s a chance it’ll be restocked eventually.
UPDATE: You can now watch a recording of the Impossible I-1 camera keynote on Vimeo (embedded below). I have also added many interesting details about the camera to this post, including detailed specifications that were just posted on the I-1 website.
Sections (roughly): 00:00 to 10:00 (about Impossible and why they made the camera), 10:40 (first look at the camera), 13:30 (flash), 15:00 (app), 17:00 (example photos taken with the I-1), 17:20 to end (live demo).
As you have probably already heard, Impossible unveiled their IP-1 I-1 camera at the Bloomberg Businessweek Design Conference on April 11th. I promised you to write a post after the announcement to cover all the details that were unveiled. Here we are, 12 days later, and it’s not like I forgot to write or something. The problem is that there‘swas not much to report until now: Impossible annoyingly chose to postpone any info outside of some basic points of interest until May 10th, when the camera goes on sale. Luckily, the BW keynote video is now public, meaning I was able to add tons of info to the post. Enjoy!
As you know, I have a passion for instant photography and the cameras connected to it. I have personally tried nearly every format of Polaroid films that has existed (except the pocket, 500 and 80-type films) and played with cameras from most formats. Impossible has been teasing their upcoming instant camera on Twitter for a few days:
Welcome back to the final part in the “Polaroid shooting Tips’n Tricks” series! This time, I’m going to explain different things that you can do to protect your image after taking it.
In case you haven’t read the previous posts in the series, make sure to check those out as they include tips on choosing the right camera & film combo as well as setting things up to achieve a great looking photograph.
Yep. I bought an original Polaroid SX-70 Land Camera (with Sonar AutoFocus)!
I’m actually on holiday in the UK atm (’till Saturday) and of course I took my SX-70 (and the 660 AF). The results have been impressive! As I can’t scan the images here, you’ll have to wait until at least next week to see them, tho 😉. Sorry!
In case you were wondering what I was doing the past weeks, here’s your answer: I was out and about to take some summertime Polaroid pictures!
For your enjoyment: my latest Polaroid series,
“Summertime is Polaroid time!” (taken on Impossible B&W factory seconds)
As you might have noticed, there are only six photos in this series even though every Impossible film pack contains eight images. That’s true!
The first image that’s not included here shows my sister (1.5 y old) and her friend, the neighbour’s daughter (2 y) playing together. I gave this image to our neighbours.
The second shot shows a woman making huge soap bubbles. She loved it, so I decided to give it to her!
What do you think of these pictures? I’ll meet you down in the comments!
Taking Polaroids these days would be less of a hassle if the images weren’t so expensive. The average Polaroid photo on Impossible film costs about 2,5€ for normal and 1,25€ for Factory Seconds packs (excl. shipping and discounts). This is why getting the shot right seems to be more important than ever. However, don’t let that ruin the experience of instant photography! If you see something worth capturing, go for it! (See Impossible’s #nowornever campaign)
Not everything looks good on Polaroid, though. The following kinds of images are probably not going to come out right using instant cameras:
Scenes with very bright and dark areas
Most Polaroid cameras have relatively basic optics in them. Unless you’re shooting with an SLR 680, don’t expect the images to look perfect. Especially light / dark contrasts in images are a challenge for single-element fixed-focus plastic lenses, take this image as an example. More examples below!
If you want to capture something in motion, your best option is to attempt and follow the subject with the camera, taking the image somewhere during the sweep. This can yield a reasonably sharp subject with blurred background (but might also give a completely shaky / blurry image). You’re probably better off taking the image with your smartphone or digital camera and using an Instant Lab to capture it on Polaroid.
Close-Ups (esp. AF cameras) If you’re using a CL (close lens) equipped camera, those are just fine for closeups. However, with an autofocus or fixed-focus camera, closeups won’t be a lot of fun. I’ve had extremely mixed results ranging from great to terribly out of focus when shooting with my AF 660. 🙁 See the gallery right below:
Framing the shot
Unlike most of today’s analog and digital pictures, Polaroid 600 and SX-70 images are (obviously) square. In addition, because classic Polaroid cameras were made mainly for portrait photography, focus is sharpest in the center of the image and autofocus cameras will always attempt to focus on the center of the image. This means that most photographic rules of thumb that you might know don’t necessarily apply on Polaroid format.
However, the following two basic framing techniques can be applied to Polaroid photography:
Rule of Thirds
The bend of the path was consciously placed exactly at the interseciton of the left and bottom thirds in this image:
Center the subject
This one might seem like no technique at all because it’s so basic, but placing the subject of your Polaroid image in the center is actually a good idea for many reasons:
– The center of the image will always be the sharpest spot.
– There is a slight vignette effect at the edge of many Polaroids.
– Classic Polaroid cameras were made for Portrait photography with the subject in the middle.
– AF cameras will always focus on the center of the image.
Things to note when framing the shot:
– Polaroid photos are quitte narrow in comparison to standard 4×3 images. Take care while framing the shot in order not to position things at the very edge of the photo, they’ll seem unimportant and be slightly out of focus! (remember, AF cameras focus in the middle)
– Be careful not to cut anything off by incorrect framing! On all non-SLR Polaroid cameras, the actual image the camera will capture is slightly to the right of what you see in the viewfinder!!
When you’re arranging the subject(s), take some extra time and take some quick digital test images (LOL! Back in the 70s, Polaroids were used for test images!) to check wether the scene looks right. This will also help you with remembering when and where you took the Polaroid image. It’s no shame to rearrange chairs and people for your image since the print will cost an instant 2,5€ (no pun intended).
The following shot took about five minutes of preparation and involved lots of sticky tape to keep everything in place!
How to press the shutter
With everything set up and ready to go, it’s time to press that shutter button! On 600 cameras, use the small black tab under the red button to take the image without flash.